Cornmeal does a great deal of work in a Caribbean kitchen — porridge in the morning, cornmeal pudding at the weekend, festival and dumplings alongside fried fish.

Fine cornmeal is the one for porridge and pudding. It cooks smooth and thickens quickly, which is what you want for a creamy breakfast porridge with condensed milk, cinnamon and nutmeg. Dunn's River in 500g and 1.5kg.

Coarse cornmeal holds more texture. Better for cornmeal pudding, turn cornmeal and anything you want a bit of bite in. Also Dunn's River, same two sizes.

Grace instant cornmeal porridge in 60g sachets is the quick version — hot water or milk and it is done. Handy for work, for students, or for mornings when there is no time to stand over a pot.

Porridge, the proper way: whisk fine cornmeal into cold water first so it does not lump, then cook out slowly, stirring, and finish with condensed milk, nutmeg, cinnamon and a pinch of salt.

Nutmeg and cinnamon are in Seasonings & Spices.